Nov 1

The day started as usual, with coffee and showers.  The mild weather is still here, but it is supposed to get colder tonight.  The rudder left Florida Monday, and is supposed to take three days to get here.  I don't know if that counts Monday or not.  Since it is shipping via a trucking company and not UPS, there is no easy way to track it.  I'm not counting on it being here today, which probably means we won't be out of here this week.

A little before noon, I took my computer down to the cruiser's lounge to get a better wi-fi connection.  I want to try and contact McAfee to find out the status of my problem.  They still have never contacted me from a week ago.  I had just sat down and started the computer when Barb came in grinning and handed me a piece of paper.  It was the bill of lading from the rudder delivery.  It had been delivered to the rigging shop as directed and they brought it over to the boat.  I was thrilled.  I quickly walked over to the rigging shop to see how fast he could install it.  Apparently Steve and I had miscommunicated, because he didn't seem aware that I wanted him to install it.  I explained that yes I did, and as soon as possible.  I left unsure of the plan.

The rest of the day was just putzing around and worrying if we could possibly get out of here this weekend.

GPS N 38-46.450 W 076-34.023  Nautical miles traveled today 0.  Total miles 6651.

Nov 2

I waited until after 09:00 before I walked down to the rigging shop to see what the plan was.  Steve told me they would be there late in the afternoon to install the rudder.  The problem is that the boat needs to be lifted by the Travelift to swap rudders, and the Travelifts are very busy hauling boats for the winter.  Steve made a deal with them to come by at 16:00, their normal quitting time, lift the boat and leave it in the slings overnight.  That way he could work late and get the job done.

Steve told me that arranging for our re-launching was up to me, so I stopped in the marina office and told them that I wanted to be launched Friday if possible.  They snickered and initially said Dec 18th would be the first opportunity.  I politely whined a bit and explained I wasn't a winter haulout, but rather a transient re-launch.  They understood, but said at best it would be sometime next week.  We have met another Canadian couple, John and Deb from Aqua Vita, and I know they have been ready to launch all week, and just got splashed today, so I'm a little discouraged.

About 15:00 Steve's two helpers came by to do some measuring.  The rudder installation requires cutting the tube to the proper length and then drilling a couple of holes in it.  They said they would be back later or in the morning.  This was the first I heard of a morning option.

At 16:00, the big Travelift was headed our way. They came to us and got ready to lift us.  They knew that we were staying aboard, so after the boat was in the slings and lifted another two feet, they put a couple of stands under it just so it wouldn't sway around as we walked inside.  I asked the lift operator if it would be possible to just launch us in the morning, assuming Steve was done, instead of re-blocking us.  It would be less labor for them and perfect for us.  He said he didn't see why not.  I was hopeful again.

By 17:00, Steve and his guys had not shown up.  I was getting concerned.  I was hoping they would be here and finish tonight, so I could paint the rudder with bottom paint and it could dry overnight and then we would be ready to launch.  I walked over to the rigging shop, and there was nobody around.  Apparently the plan to do the work tonight has changed to doing it in the morning.  I was pissed, thinking this would screw up the possibility of getting launched tomorrow.   I went back to the boat and grumbled.  Those of you who know me, now that I rarely am upset enough about something that it shows.  This was one of those times.  I suggested we go to the bar and get burgers and beer.  It was a quiet dinner, since Barb knew I was pissed and just left me alone.

After dinner, I thought what the hell, I'm going to paint the rudder on the ground, and hopefully it will dry by morning, even though It's in the forties outside.  So, I got the bottom paint and a drop light and started painting.  I had to prop the rudder up on one of the jack stands so that I could paint both sides and leave it balanced to dry.  I got it done and went inside, thoroughly chilled.  I was imagining all the worst case scenarios about the guys not coming before they needed the Travelift back, etc. 

GPS N 38-46.450 W 076-34.023  Nautical miles traveled today 0.  Total miles 6651.

Nov 3

I was up at dawn, hoping Steve and his guys would show up early.  I know the yard guys start moving boats at 08:00, so I'm worried that even if Steve shows up early, we won't be ready to launch when they need the lift, and they will re-block us.  Steve and his guys showed up a few minutes after 07:00.  I kept my mouth shut about not being happy that we seemed to keep miscommunicating and they got right after it.  The first thing was to cut the tube to length.  Once that was done, the new rudder was slipped in the boat and blocks were put under it to hold it up in place.  Then a hole was drilled in the top where the pin that holds it in goes.  08:00 came and went and nobody came for the Travelift.  About 09:00, the rudder was secure, even though not everything was hooked up, and we could be launched and they could finish in the water.  Still nobody came for the lift.  A little after 10:00, the job was done.  I had been watching the whole operation, and my displeasure with the scheduling was replaced by confidence that Steve knew what he was doing and did a good job.  And, there was a good chance we would be in the water today.

Steve left when he was done, and I went to find the yard guys to tell them we were ready to launch when they were.  Normally, yards won't launch a boat before the bill has been paid, but I didn't want to go to the office until we were launched, in case they objected to launching now.  I had been told by a couple of folks that the office here always tells you worst case scenarios, and then the yard guys really decide what happens when, but I didn't want to upset anything.  Within fifteen minutes the guys came to the lift.  They confirmed we were ready to launch and I said yes.  I was wearing a big smile as they started the lift and headed for the water, with MoonSail hanging in the slings.  We got launched, and I backed her up and tied to the long service dock.  The plan had come together.

I went up to the marina office and told them I was there to settle my bill.  They didn't know yet that we had been launched, but I assured them we were in the water and done.  They quickly figured the bill out. The charges were the standard haul/launch fee, a months worth of land storage (a month was cheaper than twenty days at the daily rate), and $75 for hanging in the slings overnight.  Now, one might argue that there was no extra labor involved in hanging in the slings since they did it when the lift sits idle anyway.  But, I was so happy to be in the water, that I just looked at it as a bonus for expediting the launch.  I had mentally prepared myself for the yard to cost a boat unit ($1000) and Steve to cost a boat unit.  So I was pleased when the yard was just over $600.

Steve said he would bring me the bill later in the afternoon, so I went and finally took a shower and relaxed, knowing that we could get underway in the morning.  Barb did a final load of laundry while I started checking weather and plotting courses for the next few days.  Late in the afternoon, Steve came by and gave me the bill for $650.  I was pleasantly surprised again.  I thanked him for getting us out quickly, and for the first time he seemed a little more relaxed and chatted with me about where we have been and what our plans are.  He also told me about his sailboat, which he has had for twenty years and has traveled from the States to Europe to the Caribbean, and back to the States in.

About 17:00, John & Debbie from Aqua Vita came over for a drink.  We had not had a chance to get to know them much yet, and it turned out we had much in common.  They don't plan to go south as fast as us, so who knows if we will meet up again  I hope we do.  We watched TV until 23:00 and then retired.  We have an early departure planned.

GPS N 38-46.450 W 076-34.023  Nautical miles traveled today 0.  Total miles 6651.

Nov 4

We were up just as the first twilight was in the east.  I started the coffee and poked my head outside.  Outside, I found frost on the deck and the bimini top.  Inside the boat was only fifty-six degrees.  We have only been able to run the small heater in the aft cabin the whole time we've been here, so we've been comfortable in bed overnight, but the main saloon has been chilly.  By 06:30, we were slipping the docklines and headed out.  The channel from the marina is not very deep, and we are leaving at dead low tide.  When we were towed in, the tow boat guy told me where to be careful, so we wouldn't have to call him again when we left.  We were bundled up in, t-shirts, sweatshirts, and our foul weather jackets.  Additionally, I had gloves on (I don't now why they were still aboard) and Barb was wearing a Santa hat that covered here ears.

Before we were even clear of the marina, the depth sounder went wacky.  First it started blinking, which it does sometimes if it gets confused by water turbulence.  Barb went below and turned everything off and back on.  The depth came back, but then quickly started blinking again.  We were only in about seven feet of water, so I was a little nervous and went very slowly.  After being underway about ten minutes, and when we were almost out of the very shallow part, the depth seemed to start acting properly and acted normal the rest of the day. 

As soon as we were clear of the harbor breakwater, I turned on the autopilot.  After a few minutes, I told the autopilot to adjust the course a little, and it didn't seem to respond.  I had checked the autopilot at the dock yesterday since we had it disconnected, and it seemed to work fine.  What it seemed to do this morning was just not drive the rudder.  The display indicated a course change when I pushed the buttons, but the wheel didn't move.  When the autopilot was engaged, it locked the wheel like it should, but if a wave made the boat turn, it didn't correct the course like it should and I had to steer myself.  This was going to get old if we had to hand steer all day, but we need to get south, so we're not going back.  The wind and speed indicators were doing very odd things also, so I guessed that perhaps the wires on the course computer had gotten crossed or loose since it is right where all the rudder work took place.  After we were out in the open, deep water, Barb took the helm and I went below to wiggle wires.  I moved the bed and opened up the steering compartment.  The wires on the course computer looked fine.  I was glad to see that with all the bolts tight, the rudder shaft was not moving at all.  I noticed that the autopilot drive unit seemed to be moving a little, but not a lot, which it should be since we are in a two foot following sea.

I went back above, and we brainstormed about what could be wrong.  The speed indicator has been a problem before, so we didn't worry about that.  The wind problem is new, but I messed with it's wires when I installed the new speed transducer, so maybe I have a bad connection there.  The autopilot is my main concern.  We speculated that maybe it was just too cold.  The drive unit is hydraulic, and I don't think I have ever been out in weather this cold.  We resigned ourselves to hand steering for now.

At 08:30, I went below to turn on the SSB radio and check in with the Cruisehiemers net.  Cruisehiemers is run by Dick Giddings who also coordinated the Southbound Cruiser's Rendezvous, so he knew of our rudder problem.  I checked in with a happy "we are back in the water and underway", and Dick welcomed us back to the net.  When I came back above, Barb was smiling.  The wind instrument had gone back to normal, and she turned the autopilot back on and it was driving normally.  It worked fine the rest of the day, which perhaps gives credence to the idea that the cold is a problem with the hydraulics.  If it acts the same tomorrow we'll know.

The rest of the day was uneventful.  We have a long day planned in the interest of getting warm.  We are going sixty-eight miles today to Reedville, VA.  Given the days are only about eleven hours long now, this is about all we can do in daylight.  Our plan was to anchor near Reedville, north of Sandy Point, where we have anchored twice before.  This is where we blew out the mainsail on our way north this spring.  We have been cold all day, although our cockpit enclosure makes a world of difference, and I started to think about how cold we would get overnight without heat.  We can only run our heat when plugged into shore power, and the forecast is for below freezing again tonight.  I checked the Waterway Guide, and found that there is a marina in Reedville up the creek where we have not gone before.  I called them to see if they had space and they did.

We arrived at the Reedville Marine and Crazy Crab Restaurant at about 16:30.  They have a face dock that can accommodate four forty-something foot boats, and about fifteen slips.  I called on the radio to see where they wanted us, but got no answer.  We prepared lines for both sides and slowly approached.  There were two boats on the face dock, so I planned on just docking there, when a kid came out and pointed right to where I was going to go.  We got secured and I went into the restaurant to pay for the dockage.  The place reminds me a little of our old favorite back in Texas, Steve's Landing, where the primary business is the restaurant, and the dockage is a bonus.

Before dark, we decided to take a little walk to see Reedville.  Where we have anchored before is away from the village, so we have never seen the town.  We walked about a mile down Main St. (the only street), and were impressed by the very nice old homes that we passed.  Most have been restored or just kept up well.  A few looked new, but were built to match the old architecture.  We passed a small fishing museum that was probably interesting, but it was almost 17:00 already, so we didn't go in.  On our way back towards the marina, a guy came out of his front door with a miniature long-hair Dachshund.  The dog had much more voice than body, and came running up to us barking up a storm.  We stopped and pet him which was what he really wanted, of course.  His owner came over to us and said hello and warned us that once you give the dog attention, you can't get rid of him.  Barb picked the dog up and we both pet him some.  His owner asked if we were on a boat (probably noticed our foul weather jackets).  We said yes and he asked if we needed anything.  We told him we were just out for a walk.  He told us if we needed to go to the grocery, which would be a long walk, or anything else, just come back and he would take us.  He also said he had a dock behind the house and if we ended up staying more than the one night, we could move there for free.  We thanked him very much.  It's neat when you encounter folks like him.

We walked back to the marina and went in the restaurant.  I took my jacket off for the first time all day and got warm.  (I still have a long sleeve t-shirt and sweatshirt on.)  We had an excellent dinner.  The place is obviously a family run business, and the owner and his wife we walking around, making sure everything was right.  While we were eating, several other boats came in to dock, and the owner was out there to take their lines.  After dinner, we went back to the boat to see how warm it is.  When it's in the thirties outside, even sixty-eight or so feels warm. 

I emptied all four of our jerry cans of diesel into the main tank.  This fuel has been in the cans for several months, so I want to cycle it through and get fresh before we need it.  While I was on deck, the captain of another sailboat that came in after us came by.  He is on a Morgan 43, built in 1985.  This is an original Morgan design, built after Catalina bought Morgan.  We chatted for a bit about our plans, and they are leaving early in the morning too.  We have another long day planned tomorrow, so it will be to bed early.

GPS N 31-50.293 W 076-16.791  Nautical miles traveled today 68.  Total miles 6719.

Nov 5

We were up before dawn, making the coffee and getting ready.  I saw the other Morgan leave about ten minutes before us.  As we left the dock, the sun was just barely breaking over the horizon.  There is almost no wind, and we are motoring, as usual.  The day was pretty uneventful, as we like it.  There was little wind, and we have a long day, so we just motored all day.  There were five sailboats in sight all day, all taking slightly different courses, but when we got to the Thimble Shoals light, we all converged and followed each other in the Elizabeth River.

We passed the Norfolk Naval Ship Yard and there were noticeably fewer ships here than in previous visits.  There was only one aircraft carrier, no subs, and few other ships.  There was one with two odd conical shaped structures on it that we have never seen before.   I have never seen one like that before.

We got to Ocean Marine marina where we have a reservation for two nights.  I called ahead and wanted to get fuel before getting our slip.  The fastest of the five sailboats that we had been around all day had gotten there first, apparently without a reservation, and they were at the fuel dock already.  There is room for two boats at the fuel dock, but the other boat was not right at the end, leaving about thirty feet for me to park our thirty-eight foot boat.  Our first approach wasn't great, and we ended up backing off and trying a second time.  The second time was better, with our anchor less than a foot from the anchor of the other boat at the dock.  We got fueled, including refilling the jerry cans, and were ready to go to our slip, while the folks on the other sailboat were still paying for their fuel.  I called the office on the radio and asked where we were going to dock, and they told me slip A-15.  I could see the full length of A dock and replied to the guy that there were no empty slips on A dock.  After some consultation, they decided to put us on the outside of their face dock.  This isn't the best option, since it leaves us exposed to wakes from passing ships, but at least we will have power for heat.

We got tied up and went to the showers.  Shortly after that, Barb's brother and his wife and a friend of theirs picked us up for dinner.  The place we wanted t go, Lobscouser, was closed, so we went to Roger Brown's Sports Bar instead.  We have eaten at Roger Brown's on two previous visits, but tonight's visit was the worst.  We were seated for ten minutes or more and nobody came to acknowledge our presence.  Finally, when hailed, a waitress came over.  We ordered our drinks and meals all together.  Eventually, the food came, and most of it was right and good, but overall, the experience was not great.

We got back to the boat and enjoyed being plugged in to cable TV.

GPS N 36-49.915 W 076-17.726  Nautical miles traveled today 65.  Total miles 6784.

Nov  6

We got up, had breakfast, and got the marina courtesy car at 09:00.  We went to Engines 1 and picked up a bunch or spare parts I ordered several weeks ago.  From there we hit West Marine for a couple of things, and the Boaters World for more soda syrup.  Boaters World had no syrup, and between them and West Marine, I found out that you can't buy a plastic jerry can without the new spill-proof snouts.  One of my four jerry cans had a spill-proof snout on it, and I spilled more with that one than with the others.  I wanted to replace that one because when I emptied it the other day, the spill-proof thingy jammed open.  Well, according to the man at Boaters World, it's a new Federal law that you can only get them with the spill-proof snouts.  Bummer.  We hit the grocery store for a few things, and got back to the marina within the two hour limit for using the car.

The rest of the afternoon was spent ordering a couple of things to be delivered while we are in Phoenix for Thanksgiving, getting our insurance set up for next year, and revising our flight plans for Thanksgiving.

We have been entertained by the work across the river in the dry dock.  Last year, we had the Disney Magic in the dry dock.  This year, the Crystal Symphony and a small aircraft carrier are here.  They have not been as noisy as the Magic was.

Tomorrow we will start eight days of fast moving south in the ditch.

GPS N 36-49.915 W 076-17.726  Nautical miles traveled today 0.  Total miles 6784.

Nov 7

We start "The Ditch" today.  From Norfolk south, there are seven bridges and one lock to navigate to make the first day's fifty miles.  Of course, each bridge and the lock have specific schedules they run by.  This means I have to plan our departure time and the speed to run between each obstacle.  The all of the bridges have rush-hour restrictions and don't open between 06:30 and 08:30, so there is no sense starting early.  The first two bridges open on demand after 08:30, but the third one only opens on the hour after 08:30.  So, I have to figure our potential speed and back up from the third bridge to obtain our start time.  I made a spreadsheet to help me do all this.  I figured if we left the marina at 08:30, we would not be in the huge first pack of boats through the first two bridges.  And we would hit the third one at 10:00.

Well, my plans went awry right off the bat.  We were ready to go before 08:30, so we actually left the dock at 08:20.  The first "problem" was that we were closer to the Jordan Bridge than I thought.  So, as we were approaching, I saw the collection of fifteen boats waiting for the 08:30 opening.  The bridge opened as we were still several minutes away.  As has been my experience in the past, Jordan is one of the best bridges to work with.  He held the bridge open several minutes while we caught up and got through.  Good news except that now we are in the big first batch of the day, which I had hoped to avoid.  The next bridge is the Gilmerton Bridge.  Gilmerton also operates on demand, but there is a parallel railroad bridge that is under separate control.  And, trains trump boats.  The powerboats in the first wave got ahead and all got through the Gilmerton before the seven sailboats.  About the time all seven sailboats got together near the bridge, the railroad bridge closed, so we had to wait for about fifteen minutes for a four-car train to pass through.  We didn't really care, since this put us where we expected to be on schedule for the 10:00 opening of the Steel Bridge.  We tried to slowly motor along to the Steel Bridge so that we didn't have to spend a lot of time maneuvering around waiting.  Most of the powerboats who made the first opening of Gilmerton were here at Steel waiting, since it only opens on the hour.  When it opened, we all moved south , powerboats first, then the slower sailboats.

The next obstacle is the Great Bridge Lock.  It locks boats southbound on the half hour.  We were the last of the pack of over a dozen boats to enter the lock.  We tied to the side of the lock and were lowered about two feet to the ICW level.  Just past the lock is the Great Bridge.  It opens on the hour in conjunction with the lock.  As we exited the lock, we hovered for a few minutes and then the bridge opened.  South of here, we have the Centerville Turnpike Bridge and the North Landing Bridge, which both open on the hour and half-hour.  We hit Centerville at 11:30, and North Landing at 12:30.  In between all these bridges, we have poked along at less than full speed, in order to minimize waiting time at the next bridge.  Once past North Landing though, the race was on.  There are no more obstacles for the twenty-five miles to Coinjock.

We ended up at the front of the seven sailboats, and stayed there for a few miles.  A ketch named Windfall, who we had chatted with on the radio while waiting for the Steel Bridge passed us after a few miles, but all the other sailboats were slower.  Of course, we were all motorboats today.  Several large powerboats passed us along the way, and remarkably, they all slowed to pass us gracefully.  We heard a Coast Guard buoy tender talking to the power boats as they came by the marker they were repairing, asking them all to slow down and not wake them.  One of the powerboats ran aground near the Coast Guard boat.  I may be misreading this, but from listening to the power boater talking to the Coast Guard guy on the radio, I'm guessing the power boater was new to this.  By the time we got to where the Coasties had been, they had gone home for the evening.

We arrived at Midway Marina in Coinjock, NC at about 16:15.  There are two "marinas" in Coinjock.  Midway on the west side of the channel, and Coinjock Marina on the east.  They both are just long face docks, as opposed to a real marina with slips.  They have a reputation for having the cheapest fuel around, but we have found Ocean Marine in Norfolk ten to twenty cents cheaper every time we have passed.  The forecast for today has been for rain to start late in the afternoon, as we had hoped to get docked before it started, but didn't.  It had been lightly raining for about half an hour before we got docked.  As we tied up, it was moderately raining.  I went to the office and checked us in and paid for the night, and went back to the boat where Barb had my arrival beverage waiting.  Right after we sat down in the cockpit to enjoy our drinks, it started to really rain.

The forecast is for heavy rain and high winds overnight.  The winds are supposed to be strong through mid-morning, and then diminish during the day.  From here south, we cross Albemarle Sound.  Albemarle Sound is one of the few places in the Atlantic ICW that you actually have to be concerned about the weather.  I have plotted a forty-eight mile day tomorrow, so we can leave at 08:00, beat through the weather on the sound, and get to our anchorage by dark.

GPS N 36-21.074 W 075-56.874  Nautical miles traveled today 42.  Total miles 6826.

Nov 8

We had gone to bed pretty early last night.  It rained hard and blew substantially most of night.  About 04:00, the rain stopped, and we could tell the wind moderated quite a bit.  I got up at 06:30 and found the conditions to be dead calm.  This was not what we expected, but perhaps we are being fooled by the fact that Coinjock is surrounded by trees.  Out on Albemarle Sound it might be different.

We cast off a little before 08:30, and headed south in the calm.  The ten miles from Coinjock to the open waters of Albemarle Sound were uneventful.  We got to the sound, and found it to also be calm winds and smooth water.  What we didn't expect though was fog.  Once we were out in the open waters of the sound, we were in fog limiting our visibility to less than a quarter mile.  This was the first time I have used my radar for real navigation when I couldn't see.  We went almost fifteen miles through the fog, with many other boats around.  I didn't slow down, but I watched the radar closely.  We were passed by three powerboats, which I had seen coming on the radar, and we passed another sailboat, within an eighth of a mile, which I never saw visually.  (I assume it was a sailboat since it was slower than me.)  Just north of the Alligator River Swing Bridge, is a place called Middle Ground.  This is a zigzag between shallows out in the middle of this big bay of deep water.  I have done this three times before, and been confused by the markers each time.  Now, I was looking at doing it blind, simply by following the radar and GPS.

To my relief, as we passed the first marker on the Middle Ground zigzag, the fog lifted.  We were able to see all the markers, although it is still a confusing area.  We made it through and a couple of mile later passed through the Alligator River Swing Bridge.  This bridge has always been one of the best on the Atlantic ICW trip, as they open on demand, and usually time the opening so you don't even have to slow down.

South of the bridge, the trip gets boring.  As the river narrows, you near the Alligator/Pungo Canal.  We plan to anchor near Tuckahoe Point, just before the entrance to the canal.  We have anchored here twice before.  This place is out of reach of cell phones, or any other signs of civilization, but we still get Radio Margaritaville.  We were the second boat here, but were later joined by three other sailboats and one large motor yacht.  We should have a quiet night's sleep and will depart at the crack-o-dawn tomorrow since we have a very long day plotted.

GPS N 35-40.367 W 076-05.879  Nautical miles traveled today 49.  Total miles 6875.