Nov 22 -23
It looks more and more like Thanksgiving will be the beginning of a good weather window for crossing the Gulf Stream. Based on that, we finished our provisioning at the Publix supermarket which is about a half mile walk from the boat. We had two carts of stuff, and the checkout girl asked who we were feeding. We explained that we were shopping for six months. The bill at Sam's the other day was $493, and the bill at Publix was $450. We should be set for everything except fresh produce. We have boxed milk that lasts forever, frozen beef, chicken, shrimp, and sausage, canned meats, the meals that our friend Pege prepared for us, etc. Wayne and Nancy picked us up and gave us a ride back to the marina.
On Wednesday the 23rd, I dumped one of our five gallon jerry cans of diesel into the main fuel tank. That should almost fill it since we were out about five hours on our aborted attempt to go to Key West. I then carried the can up to the fuel dock to refill it. This was easier than taking the boat to the fuel dock just for five gallons. Next, I took the fuel can for the dinghy up to the fuel dock and topped it up with gasoline. I then filled the water tanks. We bought two seven-gallon plastic jugs so if we ever do need to bring water to the boat via the dinghy, we can.
Barb did all of our laundry and we started stowing stuff that had made it's way out and about during our month in the marina. I mentioned earlier how easy it is to just slip back into the live-aboard marina lifestyle. We have gotten to know many of our neighbors and I could see making this a permanent place to park if that time ever comes.
Since we will be traveling on Thanksgiving, we decided to have Thanksgiving dinner on Wednesday. We got a Butterball turkey hunk, which is some white and some dark meat all wrapped up in a little net so that it is the same shape as a whole turkey. I prepared the Mooney family stuffing, and Barb made mashed potatoes, and green beans to complete the dinner. We invited Wayne and Nancy from Dances With Dragons over for dinner, and we had a good meal together. I have had many Thanksgivings that were "unconventional" in the sense that they were not the immediate family, and this ranks up there just because it was the prelude to jumping off.
The only thing I do not have filled up is our propane. We have two tanks, so it's not imperative that we leave with them full, but it would be nice. Barb suggested that I top up the one that we have been using on Wednesday afternoon. I said, let's use it to cook dinner and we can fill it in the morning. Made perfect sense except that Thursday morning was Thanksgiving so the big propane distributor about ten miles down the road in Vero Beach would probably be closed. So, after dinner, Wayne and I decided to take off to find a gas station that sold propane. When I removed the tank, it was almost empty. We had just made it through cooking dinner. Based on neighbor PJ's input, we headed for a Texaco station a few miles north of here. We got there and the attendant informed me that they were out of propane. We headed back south and stopped at three other gas stations to see if they knew a place that filled tanks. Since the advent of places that swap standard barbeque tanks, finding places that actually fill tanks is harder and harder. At the last place we planned to ask, I asked a local who was paying for his gas, instead of asking the foreigner behind the counter who just knew how to get to and from work. The local gave me directions to a gas station that has propane. We headed that way, and just about the time I was going to give up and say lets go back, we spotted the propane tank alongside an old gas station that looked closed. We pulled in and found one guy behind the counter, but yes, they did have propane. He had to lock up the store to come out and pump the propane for us, and he charged an outrageous amount, but I have a full tank of propane, so we probably won't have to worry about it in the Bahamas at all.
GPS N 27-28.104 W 80-19.649 Miles made good this leg 0. Total miles covered 3589.
Nov 24
Today is the day. The weather reports are the same as they have been, and it looks like it will be a good couple of days to cross the Gulf Stream. Tom & PJ are ready to go also. We have figured that if we leave about noon, that will put us in the Bahamas at our planned stops about noon Friday. Our planned route will take us south along the Florida coast to about the Lake Worth/Palm Beach area. We will then turn left and cross the Gulf Stream at almost a ninety degree angle. The stream runs north at about three knots, so you have to plan for that northerly set, else you end up turning back south after you are through the stream.
We have gotten all the last minute things done. Stowed things to be secure out in the open ocean, taken our last long hot showers for awhile, checked out with the marina office, and said goodbye to some of the dock neighbors we have met. We are looking at a noon departure. This is based on when we want to arrive at our destination. From Ft. Pierce, we will follow the coast south to at least Jupiter Inlet, maybe Palm Beach. This will take us until dark. Then we will turn left and head across the Gulf Stream. We should get to the Bahama Banks about dawn, and we plan to then proceed to Great Sale Cay where we will anchor.
Well, plans are made to be changed. A little before noon, Tom & PJ came down to say they were going to have to wait another hour for the tide to be high enough for them to get out of their slip. So, we bid them fair winds, and we left. I have to admit that after our last attempt to go offshore, I was a little apprehensive about getting out there again. As it turned out, there was nothing to worry about. We got out of the slip with minimal effort, despite the westerly wind trying to hold us against the dock. On our way out of the marina, we apparently disturbed a manatee. I felt a bump and suddenly the water right next to the boat churned wildly, and there was significant mud churned up. I can't think of a better explanation. Hope we didn't hurt him.
Once out of the inlet, we headed south. The seas were much tamer than last time, and there was a good west wind, putting us on a nice beam reach. We unrolled the sails and shut down the motor. We were actually sailing! Our course was set to take us very gradually offshore, so that by Lake Worth/Palm Beach, we would be about six miles offshore. Tom & PJ hailed us on the radio when they got out of the inlet. They were about an hour behind us, or about six miles. Lake Worth is about forty-five miles south of Ft. Pierce. Jupiter Inlet is a little ways north of Lake Worth. Tom & PJ were hugging the coast about two miles offshore to avoid getting into the Gulf Stream prematurely. We were gambling, since at Lake Worth, it can come within a couple of miles of the coast. Sure enough, around Jupiter Inlet, we suddenly noticed the effects of the stream. We slowed down over a knot, and the water temperature went up a few degrees. Instead of turning west and getting back out of the stream, we just bit the bullet, set a new course and turned southeast into it. We also started the motor to assist us in fighting the current. Tom & PJ continued south to Lake Worth before turning. Their destination is Port Lucaya on the south side of Grand Bahama Island, while ours is further north.
Once we were eastbound across the stream, our speed slowed to about five knots, with the mainsail still up, and the motor doing it's best. The seas were hitting us abeam, so the ride was a little choppy, but still not as bad as the aborted attempt at the Keys. Tom & PJ probably had a better ride since their angle on the waves started further south. We pressed on, taking turns at the helm. Since it is just a one-night trip, we have not stuck to a strict four-hour watch plan as before. We just switch and take naps as required. About 02:00, Barb took the helm and I laid down in the cockpit. About half an hour later, she woke me to say the engine was overheating. We immediately shut it down. We were already out of the Gulf Stream and only a few miles from the shallow waters of the Bahama Banks. So we just continued to sail until we were a couple of miles onto the bank near Memory Rock. We then furled the sails and dropped the anchor.
Once anchored, I started to diagnose the overheating problem. First I ensured that we had raw water flowing through the system. I checked the strainer and impeller and both were fine. Water seemed to be coming out the exhaust as expected. So, the problem must be with the fresh water side in the engine. First I looked at the overflow tank and it seemed to have water. I then checked the fan belt and it was intact. I then figured that the thermostat must be stuck closed. Doesn't make sense since it was new a couple of months ago, but seems like the only choice. First I banged on the housing with a hammer hoping that if it were stuck, that might free it. No joy. So, I thought I'd just remove it. Since the work done back in Georgetown, MD, this was simple. After I removed it, and restarted the engine, it still overheated. It then occurred to me that when I removed the thermostat housing, no water leaked out. So, I opened the fill cap and found the reservoir dry. This didn't make any sense since I had not seen any signs of wetness in the engine compartment from any leak. But, when I filled the reservoir and restarted the motor, it ran cold. So I put the thermostat back in, restarted it and it ran normal. So where did the water go? I had little confidence that we would not have another problem, so I posed the question to Barb so that we were in agreement before going further. We could carry on and risk getting into the Bahamas where parts and mechanics are non-existent, or we could turn back while we still have a weather window and go back to Florida where repairs would be easy. She was OK with pressing on, so we did.
A couple of interesting things about the three hours anchored near Memory Rock. Shortly after anchoring, two other boats were approaching us. One passed about half a mile south of us. The second one seemed to beheaded right for us. I was watching him and had him on our radar. The radar confirmed that he was headed straight for us. When he was a mile from us, I hailed him on the radio. He came back and said "he saw us both". I then pointed out that we were anchored, unlike the other boat that had passed already. He said 'Oh. OK" and changed course to pass a quarter mile south of us. I think he thought our anchor light was a masthead stern light. Would have been embarrassing to run into an anchored boat. Once we had agreed to press on, it was almost dawn. As we were preparing to hoist anchor, Barb noticed another boat anchored about half a mile from us. They must have been there before us and had no anchor light on at all. Amazing.
By now, the wind had died, so we motored on east towards Great Sale Cay. The engine never overheated again, and we got to Great Sale about 13:40. There was one other trawler anchored there already. Great Sale is an uninhabited island, with a nice horseshoe bay that give protection form the north or east. We got as far up in the horseshoe as depth would allow and dropped the hook. Before dark, seven other boats had also anchored. It was very peaceful and we enjoyed a great sunset. Once the engine had cooled down, I checked the water level. Full to the brim. That's good except it leaves me wondering where the original water went.
We were in bed about 19:00, since the sun was down. Besides, the night had not afforded either of us much rest, so we needed a good night's sleep.
GPS N 26-59.107 W 78-12.89 Miles made good this leg 143. Total miles covered 3732.
Since we were early to bed, we were early to rise. Our plans were to either press on from here to Spanish Cay where we can officially check in with Customs and Immigration, or stay here a few days waiting on the forecast east winds to subside. Well, the overnight north wind had never materialized, and it had been dead calm all night and still was. So we had coffee and hauled in the anchor.
Before we left, I checked the water in the motor. I expected to find it down some, but it was chock full. This makes no sense. Where could the original water have gone if I don't have some kind of leak?
I think I have mentioned the dichotomy of the wind before. When at anchor, no wind is perfect because you don't worry about the anchor dragging, you don't have the noise of the wind generator, and you have flat seas. The bad side of that though is with no wind, you have no wind generator making electricity for all those nice gadgets onboard. So, you don't know which to wish for.
We were underway a little after 07:00 in perfectly flat seas. We headed east to Spanish Cay, where we can check in with Customs & Immigration, get fuel and ice, and anchor off the marina. The wind is forecast to be from the east for the next few days. The anchorage at Spanish Cay offers protection from the north to northeast, and south to southeast. But directly from the east, there is a gap in the island that will let the wind through. As we got closer, we saw that the marina was nearly empty, and their price was reasonable, so we opted to stay a couple nights in the marina.
Once in the marina, about 14:00, we got the boat secure and then went to meet the Customs guy. I had to fill out the same info on six different forms, pay my $300 for a 12 month cruising permit, and then we were good to go. The Customs guy seems to live there and is available 24/7. He was very friendly and was listening to American college football on the radio. The lady who was in the marina office explained to me that this is the slow season in the Abacos. Most boats head further south to the Exumas and Georgetown. We will be headed that way, but for now, this still seems wonderful.
We went for a walk on one end of the island. The small beach we ended up on had brown powdery sand that was like walking on a sponge. I was surprised how much litter was on the beach, probably washed up from boats. Even though we were only away from the boat a half an hour or so, it was cool to be wandering around a sparsely populated island.
Back at the boat, I listened to the Florida Gators kick Florida State's ass. Isn't Sirius Radio wonderful? After that it was back to Radio Margaritaville. We enjoyed a dinner of chicken enchiladas. There is internet access here, so hopefully I will get to post this. I have found that updating the website via the sat phone is problematic, so we will be updating at other internet access points along the way.
(From Barb) It's 21:00 and I am proof reading the log for the captain who has fallen asleep on the couch. He has taken me from a nice secure life in Texas to paradise and a life of unknowns. I have never been happier. It's been an exciting 6 months since leaving and I am sure it will continue.
GPS N 26-56.288 W 77-31.453 Miles made good this leg 45. Total miles covered 3634.